As has been alluded to before in these pages, Echo Park hot spot Winsome has a bit of an "are you one of us? Prove it" vibe to it, especially during the packed-to-the-gills weekend brunch.

But, as it turns out, there's a way to get the best of Winsome's offerings without dealing with the virtual velvet rope of the hostess stand: Get some pastries to go from the coffee counter.

Winsome's pastry chef, Leslie Mialma, seems to be on her way to attaining full wizard status, at least when it comes to butter, sugar and flour. She creates breakfast sweets that stick with you a while, especially when she's working with fruit and custard. She also works with sometimes-unexpected grains: There is spelt in the muffins, and rye in the bruleed brownies, one of the most popular choices.

Of course, if there's mochi butter cake in the case, you'll need to get a slice of that. The scones are excellent as well. But the one thing you must get is the flat, fruit- custard- and streusel-topped brioche. By "one," I of course mean a couple. One for nighttime, one for the morning.

And keep an eye on this Mialma chick's career.

1115 Sunset Blvd., Echo Park. (213) 415-1818, eatwinsome.com.