Chez Tex is a restaurant in the old-fashioned model, a mom-and-pop so true to the genre that the couple in question literally became parents within the first weeks of the place's opening in August. The name is an ode to owner Jesse Feldman's grandfather, Tex, who moved to Los Angeles from Dallas in the 1940s. The former art gallery space is spare ? almost too spare, with its gray walls and metal-walled kitchen in back. But the floor-to-ceiling windows in front, which open to the street, give the room an indoor-outdoor feel. Feldman spent much of his upbringing in Europe, and the style of the place is very much in line with a cafe you might find down some out-of-the-way, winding Parisian street. Chez Tex's kinda French kinda Californian menu is short, and heavy on salads, and full of small touches that would be easy to miss but that elevate the food considerably. Where Chez Tex really hits its stride is with the more entree-like dishes. There's a fantastic half chicken, its coating lightly smoky and spicy thanks to a harissa rub. A savory leek bread pudding, like lovely onion-y stuffing, comes on the plate along with braised chard. It tastes like Sunday dinner in the French countryside, like comfort but also elegance. Black-as-tar nero risotto features local squid and large prawns, and is murkily delicious, brightened by a smear of pesto made with lovage along the side of the bowl. Read the L.A. Weekly review here.