The legendary San Pedro gathering place Papadakis Taverna closed in 2010 after a 37-year run that saw the scrappy little restaurant (it used to be a brothel!) turn into a go-to party spot for USC glitterati and showbiz folks alike. Since then, two restaurants have attempted to fill the space ? physical and nostalgic ? but both closed in about a year. But the building has a new owner now, and a simple concept in a pretty, remodeled space.

Pappy's Seafood (yes, named in homage) is a new project by the owners of the Albright (formerly SM Pier Seafood, opened by the parents of one of the current owners) on the Santa Monica Pier. They're staying in their comfort zone with a menu of fishy crowd-pleasers like fish and chips, calamari, stuffed clams and the seafood stews of various nations. And a fish grill, and, of course, pok?.

Between the name of this new restaurant and nods to the area's history, like a bar reclaimed from the old Fisherman's Market at Ports o' Call, the owners are being respectful and aware of their surroundings. This means they may not even get accused of gentrification.This iteration could work.

301 W. Sixth St., San Pedro; (424) 224-5444, facebook.com/pappysseafood.